Thursday, November 4, 2010

Golden Temple

From Rishikesh near Nepal in the north-east, an 8h train journey brought us to Amritsar in the north-west. The city is situated just on the border to Pakistan in the state of Punjab. Famous for the stunning Golden Temple, a place of pilgrimage for Sikhs.


We found the Punjabis to be unbelievably friendly, honest, and generous people. All the facilities around the Golden Temple were free of charge, including the sleeping accommodation, toilets, shoe cubbys and last but not least the free kitchen. The best experience was without a doubt the 24h open free kitchen which served over 10 000 portions of dahl, rice and chapatis every day! All hungry souls were welcome to eat there and we sat in rows on the floor as efficient Sikh volunteers went around serving up food. The system there was absolutely amazing. Huge couldrons boiled lentils day and night, groups of people sat chopping thousands of onions and yet more helped with the frantic chore of sorting and washing up dishes.


Free Kitchen
Man serving food

Tara tucking into a nice curry

 Patrick eating in the Free Kitchen
Extremely organised Sikhs sort dishes sending them flying through the air and landing with precision and a bang
Volunteers washing up
Around the Golden Temple complex there were guruwaras places for pilgrims to sleep. We stayed in a dormatory for foreigners that was small, packed and stuffy but nonetheless the atmosphere was well worth a few sweaty nights. The first night we arrived all the beds were taken and we were resolved to sleeping on the floor with people clambering over us all night long.
Dormatory
Pilgrims taking a nap

The Jallianwala Bagh Massacre

On April 13, thousands of people gathered in the Jallianwala Bagh (garden) near the Golden Temple in Amritsar, to discuss the non-violent struggle for independence from British rule.
An hour after the meeting began as scheduled at 4:30pm, Brigadier-General Reginald Dyer marched a group of sixty-five Gurkha and twenty-five Baluchi soldiers into the Bagh, fifty of whom were armed with rifles. Dyer had also brought two armoured cars armed with machine guns, however the vehicles were stationed outside the main gate as they were unable to enter the Bagh through the narrow entrance.
The Jallianwala Bagh was bounded on all sides by houses and buildings and had few narrow entrances, most of which were kept permanently locked. The main entrance was relatively wider, but was guarded by the troops backed by the armoured vehicles. General Dyer ordered troops to open fire without warning or any order to disperse, and to direct fire towards the densest sections of the crowd. He continued the firing, approximately 1,650 rounds in all, until ammunition was almost exhausted.
Apart from the many deaths directly from the firing, a number of people died in stampedes at the narrow gates or by jumping into the solitary well on the compound to escape the firing. A plaque in the monument at the site, set up after independence, says that 120 bodies were plucked out of the well.
The wounded could not be moved from where they had fallen, as a curfew had been declared - many more died during the night. There were more than 1500 casualties and about 1000 killed.







Sunday, October 24, 2010

Rishikesh


We arrived in Rishikesh after a few days in Haridwar. Found an Ashram (place of Meditation, Yoga ect) to stay at. The next morning we decided to eat our breakfast of bananas on the roof and got robbed by one mean monkey.

Went for a hike up a mountain and at the top found terraced rice fields. The workers were so nice, they gave us cucumbers and guava fruits.

Festival in Rishikesh. Music, dancing and deafening EXPLOSIONS! First we thought the earsplitting blasts where due to dynamite used in roadwork but discovered that Indians merely love the chance to make some noise (even if it means nearly damaging your eardrums).


Saturday, October 16, 2010

Sadhus on Mobile Phones

Escaping crowded and polluted Delhi we headed north to the holy city of Haridwar. This is where the sacred river Ganges emerges from the Himalayan Mountains and it is busy with Hindu pilgrims. We followed suite and did as most visiting Indians here do and took a dip in the fast-slowing Ganges (it is said to wash away your sins).


Patrick in the Ganges

Every evening there is a ceremony, puja, where people put leaf baskets filled with flower petals and a burning candle in the river. The belief is you make a wish and it will come true. An Indian boy swam out to put our basket in the middle of the river also managing to put the candle out. In all the excitement we even forgot to make our wishes. Better luck next time.


The world of technology is evidently hitting India and mobile phones and tvs are increasing in popularity. We even saw an orange-clothed Sadhu (holy man) chatting away avidly on his mobile phone!

Next stop Rishikesh...

Delhi Part 2

Testing the limits of our cheapness, we found this dilapidated hovel in Pahar Ganj. For only 250 rupees we got to enjoy the company of mosquitos, cockroaches and all the filth we could handle.

 Hotel Mohit, Delhi


Gandhi Smriti is the place where Gandhi was assassinated. It is now a museum filled with quote's from Gandhi and depictions of his life.



Monday, October 11, 2010

Acclimatizing to India

India is India alright. A unique crazy existence of life and colour. It all hits you from the first moment you arrive at the airport. The heat, thick air full with the smell of spices, noises, bustling of people, honking of car horns. Take the busiest street you know and times it by five and you have Delhi. Pure, but wonderful, chaos. The weather is hot and humid and we go around constantly sweating like we just got out of a Bikram yoga session.

We are in vegetarian heaven. Eating a delious variety of lentil dahls, currys and rice everyday. Luckily we have only yet had one incident of too spicey food;
a bharta (egg plant/aubergine) curry that made us sweat, snivel and the waiter smirk at our bland western taste buds.

Tara had her ears cleaned out by a friendly local man at Connaught Place who told us that it has been his profession for 25 years!

Forget deseases and the like, dodging the traffic here has been the most life-threatening as crosswalks are unherd of, traffic laws ignored and using the horn a general method of getting through the traffic. Our tactic has has been to discretely tag along behind the locals who are experts at weaving through the traffic.

                                                Rickshaws at New Delhi Train Station

                                                                    First night in Delhi


                                                                      Pahar Ganj

Monday, October 4, 2010

Wwoofing in Sweden; Part 2

Åke´s Farm

Epic garden, met some nice people, never ate so good.

Tara and Magdelena, the Wwoofer.
Patrick and Guus from Holland.

Wwoofing in Sweden

Hello! there...
We've just returned to Gotland after a few weeks of wwoofing near Göteborg/Gothemburg. The first bit we spent at an Eco-village called Utsikten Ekoby on an island called Orust. There we spent our time helping our host, Sivert, build his strawbale house. 

Patrick gives a thumb's up next to the plaster's secret ingredient.
Tara plastering the straw with a mixture of clay, sand and 'bullshit'